How to Buy: Though there are occasionally bargains and even great finds online, the prevalence of dodgy watches and dubious practitioners means your best bet is to go to an authorized dealer or retailer like Tourneau that’s licensed to sell multiple brands as well as its own. Come in with a budget, and if the watch you like is outside that budget, consider a few options that will help lower the price—a stainless-steel (or even leather) bracelet over white gold, a watch you wind over an automatic—or simply opt for a lesser-known brand that is still high quality. And don’t expect to do much negotiating. If you do happen to find a dealer who is willing to offer a discount, it’s rarely more than 5 or 10 percent. (Some brands, like Rolex and Cartier, don’t allow any leeway at all on their pricing.)
How to Sell: Don’t. Think of your children.
Three Types of Wrists, Three Types of Watches
Hairy: Avoid metallic bracelets with links, which can catch and pull your arm hair. Opt instead for a watch with a leather band, like the Hermés Cape Cod.
Large: If your huge forearms dwarf traditional watch faces, look for something with a diameter of at least 50mm. The U-Boat U-42 Chrono should stand up to the biggest wrist, since it’s only slightly smaller than a dinner plate.
Thin: A big watch face on a small wrist looks as bad as an oversized suit on a skinny man. You’ll want a narrower watch face, like the 38.5mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Calissique’s.